Hidden within the green hills of Cantabria in northern Spain, the Cave of Altamira holds some of the most extraordinary examples of prehistoric cave art ever discovered. Painted between approximately 36,000 and 15,000 years ago, the polychrome bison on its ceiling are so vivid and skillfully rendered that early archaeologists initially refused to believe they could be the work of Stone Age artists. Today, the cave is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a powerful testament to the creative genius of our ancient ancestors.

The Discovery That Changed Art History

The cave was first found in 1868 by a local hunter named Modesto Cubillas, who stumbled upon the entrance while searching for his dog among the rocks. However, the paintings on the cave ceiling were not noticed until 1879, when Marcelino Sanz de Sautuola, an amateur archaeologist, was exploring the cave with his eight-year-old daughter Maria. According to the well-known account, it was Maria who first looked up and exclaimed at the painted bison on the low ceiling.

Sautuola published his findings in 1880, proposing that the paintings dated to the Paleolithic era. His claim was met with fierce skepticism from the academic establishment. Many prominent prehistorians, particularly French scholar Emile Cartailhac, accused Sautuola of forgery, arguing that prehistoric humans could not have possessed such artistic ability. It was not until 1902, after similar paintings were discovered in other European caves, that Cartailhac publicly acknowledged his error in a famous article titled "Mea Culpa of a Skeptic." Sadly, Sautuola had died in 1888 without receiving the recognition he deserved.

The Paintings

The most celebrated section of the cave is the polychrome ceiling, a roughly 18-meter-long chamber whose curved surface is covered with approximately 25 large animal figures, predominantly bison, along with horses, deer, and outlines of human hands. The artists used the natural contours and bumps of the rock surface to add three-dimensionality to their work, a technique that reveals a sophisticated understanding of perspective.

The paintings employ multiple pigments. Red, brown, and yellow ochre were combined with manganese oxide and charcoal black to create a rich color palette. The pigments were applied using a variety of methods including fingers, animal hair brushes, and primitive spray-painting techniques where pigment was blown through hollow bones to create soft, diffused outlines.

Detailed view of a polychrome bison painting from the Altamira Cave ceiling A polychrome bison from the Altamira ceiling, one of the finest examples of Paleolithic art. Image: Public Domain

Beyond the Ceiling

While the polychrome ceiling receives the most attention, the cave contains art throughout its 270-meter length. Other sections feature engravings, black outline drawings, and abstract symbols whose meaning remains debated among researchers. The variety of styles and techniques found throughout the cave suggests that it was used and decorated over a period spanning thousands of years, with different groups of humans leaving their mark at different times.

The Conservation Challenge

By the late twentieth century, the millions of visitors who had entered the cave since its opening as a tourist site in 1917 had caused significant damage to the paintings. Carbon dioxide, heat, and humidity from human breath altered the cave's micro-climate, promoting the growth of bacteria and algae on the painted surfaces. In 2002, the original cave was closed to the general public to prevent further deterioration.

The debate over access to Altamira continues. Between 2014 and 2015, a limited program allowed five randomly selected visitors per week to enter the original cave for just 37 minutes under strict conditions. However, even this minimal access proved controversial among conservationists, and the program was eventually suspended. As of the most recent information, access to the original cave remains highly restricted.

The Altamira Museum and Neocave

To allow visitors to experience the wonder of Altamira without endangering the original art, the Museo Nacional y Centro de Investigacion de Altamira was built adjacent to the original cave. Its centerpiece is the Neocave, a meticulous full-scale replica of the original cave ceiling created using advanced photogrammetric techniques and pigments identical to those used by the prehistoric artists.

The replica is so faithfully executed that many visitors report finding it difficult to believe they are not looking at the original paintings. The museum also houses an extensive collection of artifacts found within the cave and across Cantabria, along with interactive exhibitions that explore the daily life, technology, and artistic practices of the people who created the paintings.

Visitor Information

Location Museo de Altamira, 39330 Santillana del Mar, Cantabria
Museum Hours Tue-Sat: 9:30 AM - 8:00 PM, Sun: 9:30 AM - 3:00 PM (May-Oct)
Tue-Sat: 9:30 AM - 6:00 PM, Sun: 9:30 AM - 3:00 PM (Nov-Apr)
Closed Mondays, January 1, May 1, December 24-25, December 31
Original Cave Access Currently highly restricted / by special research permission
Visit Duration Approximately 2-3 hours for museum and Neocave

Getting There

The museum is located approximately 2 kilometers from the picturesque medieval town of Santillana del Mar and about 30 kilometers west of the city of Santander. The nearest airport is Santander-Seve Ballesteros Airport, with connecting flights from Madrid and Barcelona. If driving, take the A-67 motorway from Santander and exit toward Santillana del Mar. Free parking is available at the museum.

Nearby Attractions

The town of Santillana del Mar itself is a remarkably well-preserved medieval village worth exploring. The region of Cantabria also offers several other prehistoric caves open to the public, including El Castillo, Las Monedas, and Hornos de la Pena, making it possible to create a multi-day cave-themed itinerary through the area.

Previous Guide Cuevas del Drach, Mallorca Also Read Caves of Nerja, Andalusia